Why Your Fabric Specification Sheet Is Costing You Rounds of Back-and-Forth

Key Sourcing Takeaways

• A usable fabric specification sheet separates fixed requirements, acceptable tolerances, and fields that are open to the mill’s recommendation.
• Construction, cuttable width, finish, test criteria, and order quantity can change feasibility and price even when fiber content and GSM remain similar.
• A reference swatch helps align surface, weight, and finish, but it does not replace measurable specifications.
• Certification scope should be confirmed at the RFQ stage; adding it later may require material substitution, repeat sampling, or additional testing.

A quote can only be as precise as the fabric brief behind it. When an RFQ names a fabric but omits finished width, weight tolerance, stretch direction, finish, test criteria, or order quantity, the mill must either ask more questions or make assumptions. This guide explains what a knit fabric specification sheet should contain before sampling.

A Fabric Specification Sheet Must Mark What Is Fixed

A garment specification sheet defines the finished product through measurements, seams, trims, and assembly details. A fabric specification sheet defines the material the mill must quote and reproduce, including construction, composition, finished weight, cuttable width, finish, color reference, performance criteria, and order quantity.

For an initial fabric RFQ, mark each field as fixed, flexible, or open to recommendation. A fixed requirement must be met or explicitly flagged as unavailable. A flexible requirement needs an acceptable range, while an open field allows the mill to propose an option. Without these labels, a preference may be treated as mandatory or an unconfirmed supplier proposal may be treated as approved.

A garment tech pack may already contain useful material information, but a fabric mill still needs those requirements isolated in a clear fabric brief. A one-page sheet can accompany the tech pack and identify the construction, composition, finished weight and width, performance targets, finish, color reference, certification scope, and estimated quantity relevant to the fabric quote.

Buyers reviewing Runtang Tex’s knit fabric range can use the same one-page structure for initial RFQs.

The Fields That Determine Whether a Quote Is Accurate

The following fields are what a knit fabric manufacturer needs to price a fabric correctly and produce a sample that matches your requirements. Each field is listed with a note on why omitting it causes problems.

Field	Why It Matters	How to Fill It
End-use	Determines stretch, finish, and applicable test standards	"Women's activewear leggings" or "men's casual hoodie" — be specific about garment type
Fiber content	Affects dyeing, certifications, and price range	"92% polyester / 8% spandex" or "100% cotton" — include percentages
Fabric construction	Influences machine setup, yarn selection, achievable weight, performance, and cost	Single jersey, French terry, interlock, rib knit — use the fabric name you have; add a reference if unsure
Finished GSM target and tolerance	Finished weight affects material consumption, hand, and the quotation basis.	State the nominal finished GSM and permitted tolerance. If development is still open, label the wider GSM range as provisional.
Stretch requirement	Critical for fit, especially in activewear and bodywear	State the stretch direction, extension target, recovery requirement, specimen orientation, and applicable test method.
Finish requirement	If unspecified, the supplier may quote an available base finish or request clarification	Enzyme wash, anti-pilling, brushed, silicone softener — list any non-standard finish you need
Reference sample	Provides a physical benchmark for surface, approximate weight, hand, and finish.	A physical swatch is preferred. A product link may support visual discussion but cannot confirm GSM, composition, stretch, or finish by itself.
Estimated order quantity	Allows the supplier to confirm the applicable MOQ, production route, and pricing basis.	State the estimated kilograms per color and total number of colors; the mill can then confirm the applicable MOQ.
Certification requirements	May affect material sourcing, certificate scope, traceability documents, pricing, and whether a revised sample is required	State the required certification scheme and claim, and mark the requirement as mandatory or pending confirmation.
Finished usable width	Width affects yield, knitting and finishing planning, and price comparisons between suppliers	State whether the fabric is open width or tubular, then give the required finished usable width and permitted tolerance.
Color requirements	Color count and approval route affect dyeing setup, MOQ confirmation, and quotation.	Give the color standard, number of colors, and whether a lab dip or another color approval reference is required.
Test method and acceptance limit	Terms such as “good recovery” or “low shrinkage” cannot be used for objective approval	Name the applicable method, specimen direction or care procedure, result unit, and pass/fail limit

Performance requirements should identify both the test method and the acceptance limit. The current AATCC test methods and procedures cover properties such as dimensional change, skew, colorfastness, moisture management, and fabric hand. An RFQ should therefore state the applicable designation and target rather than using a general instruction such as “standard testing required.”

What Happens When These Fields Are Left Blank

When a field is missing, the supplier may request clarification or quote against an available construction, finish, or testing assumption. If that assumption differs from the buyer’s intended approval criteria, the quotation or sample must be revised.

Common RFQ failure patterns include the following:

Finish requirement left blank. The mill quotes or samples an available base finish. If the buyer later requests brushing, enzyme treatment, or a different softening route, the sample and schedule may need to be revised.

GSM not specified. The mill may quote an available weight or ask for clarification. If the buyer later requires a heavier or lighter result, the construction, material plan, price, and sampling schedule may need to be reviewed again.

Stretch tolerance omitted. Terms such as “2-way stretch” and “4-way stretch” do not establish an approval limit. The sheet should state the required direction, extension target, recovery requirement, test method, and specimen orientation. A jersey knit fabric may otherwise be quoted against a different stretch expectation from the one used by the buyer’s garment team.

Certification requirement added after sampling. Certification and chain-of-custody requirements may affect the approved material source, supplier documentation, transaction records, and certificate scope. Adding them after the first sample does not always make the existing sample unusable, but the mill may need to revise the sourcing route, quotation, or sample plan. State the required claim and documentation at the RFQ stage whenever possible.

A documented specification also becomes the baseline for any later knit fabric defect claims because it distinguishes a measurable non-conformance from a difference in how the original brief was interpreted.

A Ready-to-Use Fabric Specification Sheet Template for Knit RFQs

The template below is an RFQ brief, not a garment Tech Pack. It gives the mill structured information for feasibility review and quotation. The confirmed tolerances, test criteria, and approval references can then be carried into sampling and bulk production.

PDF and Excel formats are both workable. When a physical reference swatch is available, identify it by sample ID or version so the written requirements and approval reference remain traceable throughout development.

Fabric Specification Sheet — Knit RFQ Template:

• Brand / Project Name:
• Specification Version / Date:
• End-Use:
• Fabric Construction — Fixed / Flexible / Open:
• Fiber Content (%) — Fixed / Flexible / Open:
• Finished GSM Target / Tolerance — Fixed / Flexible / Open:
• Finished Usable Width / Open or Tubular / Tolerance:
• Stretch and Recovery Requirement / Direction / Test Method:
• Color Standard / Number of Colors:
• Finish Requirements — Fixed / Flexible / Open:
• Test Method / Acceptance Limit:
• Reference Sample ID / Version:
• Certification Scheme / Claim — Mandatory or Pending:
• Estimated Quantity per Color / Total Quantity:
• Additional Notes:

For French terry, specify the face and back condition separately. “French terry” alone does not tell the mill whether the back should remain as visible loops, receive brushing, or undergo an enzyme or softening treatment. Written finish requirements and an approved physical reference give the supplier a production target rather than only a fabric category.

FAQ

Do I need a full Tech Pack before contacting a knit fabric manufacturer?

Not necessarily. A garment tech pack can provide useful context, but the mill still needs the fabric requirements presented clearly enough to quote: construction, composition, finished GSM and width, stretch or performance criteria, finish, color reference, certification requirements, and estimated quantity.

What if I don't know the exact GSM or fiber ratio yet?

A provisional range is acceptable when development is still open. A physical swatch can help the mill compare structure, surface, and approximate weight, but it does not replace measured composition, stretch, width, or test limits. Mark uncertain fields as provisional and ask the supplier to identify which values must be confirmed before quotation or sampling.

Runtang Tex manufactures knitted fabrics for apparel brands across Europe, North America, and Australia. Submit your fabric specification sheet to request a sample or get a quote — and get a response based on your actual requirements, not factory defaults.